In the winding streets of Old Mosul, once the vibrant center of Iraq’s shoemaking heritage, the sound of craftsmanship is gradually returning.
Following years marked by turmoil and devastation, artisans such as 58-year-old Saad Abdul Aal are breathing new life into a centuries-old craft that stretches back over a millennium.
The art of shoemaking, locally known as al-qandarjiya, thrived during the Abbasid era when Baghdad stood as a bustling nexus of commerce and culture.
For countless generations, families dedicated themselves to the meticulous process of turning rawhide into sturdy footwear, passing down their expertise from mentors to apprentices.
Before the outbreak of conflict, Baghdad was home to more than 250 shoe factories, while Mosul supported over 50. Shoes crafted in Iraq were celebrated for their blend of style and durability, embodying a source of national pride.
“I began this craft over four decades ago,” Abdul Aal shares, his hands deftly shaping leather. “I embraced the trade wholeheartedly and have never looked back.”
This proud legacy faced near extinction in 2014 when ISIL took control of Mosul. Workshops were destroyed, ransacked, or deserted.
Abdul Aal lost everything-his tools, his workshop, and his team. “The bombings wiped out everything. There was no capital to even think about rebuilding,” he reflects.
By the war’s conclusion, Mosul’s shoemaking industry had shrunk dramatically, with fewer than ten factories remaining operational. Thousands of skilled shoemakers found themselves without work, threatening the survival of their craft.
The revival began with support from the International Organization for Migration’s (IOM) Enterprise Development Fund-Tameer, which offered financial aid and training to displaced business owners and those returning home.
For Abdul Aal, this assistance meant acquiring new sewing and pressing equipment, reopening his workshop, and rehiring employees.
“Rebuilding is challenging, but step by step, we are making progress,” he notes.
Currently, Abdul Aal crafts around four pairs of shoes daily-less than in the past, yet sufficient to sustain his enterprise. Despite stiff competition from inexpensive imports, he remains confident in the superiority of Iraqi shoemaking.
“Our footwear is made from genuine leather and built to endure. Imported shoes might look attractive, but they don’t match our quality.
“The shoes from my workshop resemble imported brands in appearance but surpass them in durability and craftsmanship.
“That distinction fills us with pride.”
