Michael W. Twitty, a culinary historian, explores the cultural roots and stories behind each recipe in his latest cookbook.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
Michael W. Twitty aims to challenge the common stereotypes about Southern cuisine, which is often reduced to fried foods and endless sweet tea. His comprehensive new cookbook, Recipes from the American South, offers home cooks a chance to prepare dishes that truly reflect the South’s intricate, layered, and evolving culinary heritage. As a James Beard Award-winning author, Twitty brings a fresh perspective to the region’s food traditions.
During a recent visit to Twitty’s Virginia residence, I spent a day cooking and conversing with him. Our morning began in his garden, where an impressive array of vegetables and herbs flourished. Among the crops were peppers, beans, corn, cabbage, and a variety of herbs. Notably, Twitty cultivates cotton and peanuts as a tribute to his enslaved ancestors, connecting the present to a painful past.
A tractor moves past Twitty’s garden at his Virginia home.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
“This is a side of Southern agriculture that many haven’t witnessed,” Twitty explained. “I nurture heirloom varieties that aren’t intended for mass production but to preserve seeds and educate people about our heritage.”
He plucked a handful of fresh parsley from one of the herb beds, releasing a vibrant, earthy aroma that filled the air.
Twitty cultivates okra (left) and cotton, among other crops. The cotton and peanuts honor his enslaved forebears.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
Nearly all the ingredients for our cooking session came straight from his garden. As tomato season winds down, these ripe, sweet fruits took center stage in our dishes. Twitty emphasizes that Southern cuisine is fundamentally seasonal, shaped by the rhythms of the land.
On this day, the garden was overflowing with okra – a vegetable with African origins that has become a Southern staple. We prepared okra soup, red rice, and green beans simmered slowly in a savory broth. Since Twitty is an observant Jew, as detailed in his previous book Koshersoul, we substituted beef bacon for the traditional pork to align with his dietary practices.
His home radiated warmth and light, filled with an extensive collection of books and artifacts gathered from his travels. “This is a maximalist space,” he joked.
Twitty inhales the fresh scent of parsley harvested from his garden.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
Before entering the kitchen, we paused to admire a collection of personal artifacts displayed on the wall, which Twitty described as an altar.
“Here are the hot combs of my great-grandmother, grandmother, and mother,” he said, likening their placement to a mezuzah by the door. He also pointed to a church fan from his grandmother and a fan from Ghana, symbolizing his family’s spiritual and cultural lineage.
“I keep this space sacred,” he explained. “It’s a place that demands respect and honors the women who came before me.”
Everything about Twitty’s approach is intentional and meaningful, including the recipes. In Recipes from the American South, he provides historical context alongside each dish, celebrating the diverse Indigenous, African, European, and Asian influences that have shaped Southern cooking. These cultures blended their culinary knowledge with local ingredients to create the region’s unique flavors.
Left: Fans and memorabilia from Twitty’s family and travels decorate a wall. Right: Dried cotton branches sit beside shelves brimming with books.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
“Everyone had to adapt with the resources available where they lived,” Twitty reflected.
His cookbook features a wide range of Southern dishes: from homemade New Orleans-style beignets to Chinese-influenced collard greens from Mississippi, pickled peaches, and country captain chicken. Twitty stresses that all these recipes belong to the Southern culinary tradition and are designed to be approachable for everyday cooks.
While he doesn’t intend to lecture readers, Twitty is committed to acknowledging the South’s complicated past and ensuring that Black chefs and food historians are included in the narrative.
“As an African American writer with Southern roots, I can tell the stories of Cajuns, Mississippi’s Chinese community, Kurds, Latinos – everyone,” he said passionately while slicing okra. “We’re all part of the South’s story, like a family. Maybe a dysfunctional one, but still a family.”
For Twitty, cooking and writing serve as a form of emotional release and healing.
“This is mental health work for me,” he shared. “Many don’t grasp what it means to be immigrants, exiles, or part of a diaspora, or to live under oppression and poverty. Learning to cook within those constraints and embracing that identity is deeply restorative and transformative.”
At last, we gathered in the dining room to savor the meal we had prepared. The flavors were rich and comforting, and the homegrown ingredients made the experience all the more fulfilling. At Michael Twitty’s table, everyone is invited to share in this culinary journey.
Left: Twitty cuts okra on a board. Right: The finished Okra Soup from his newest cookbook.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
Okra Soup
This okra soup is a classic from the Tidewater South, spanning from Maryland down to Georgia. Originating from West Africa and brought through the Afro-Caribbean diaspora, okra connects Southern cuisine to the broader African Atlantic culinary tradition. The soup is made without a roux and can be served vegetarian or with added protein.
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 55-60 minutes
Serves: 6
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or beef bacon fat
- 1 large onion, diced
- 1 medium green bell pepper, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 cups (330 g) corn kernels, fresh or frozen
- 1 cup (180 g) diced red heirloom tomatoes
- 1 can (28 oz/794 g) diced tomatoes
- 4 cups (32 fl oz/950 ml) vegetable or chicken broth
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter
- 2 ½ cups (290 g) thinly sliced okra
- ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- Cooked white rice, for serving
Instructions
Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and garlic, sautéing until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the corn, fresh tomatoes, canned tomatoes, broth, and season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 30-35 minutes to meld the flavors.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the okra, cayenne, salt, and pepper, cooking until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Once the broth is ready, stir in the sautéed okra. Adjust seasoning as needed, cover, and cook over medium heat for another 10-15 minutes until the okra absorbs the broth.
Serve the soup with a scoop of white rice in each bowl.
Storage: Keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Variation: Add 1 cup (235 g) of diced raw beef or chicken to the broth before adding the okra for a heartier version.
Recipe adapted from RECIPES FROM THE AMERICAN SOUTH by Michael W. Twitty (Phaidon, 2025)
Twitty selects vibrant bowls from his kitchen cabinet to serve the meal.
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
hide caption
toggle caption
Maansi Srivastava/NPR
Edited by Jennifer Vanasco for broadcast and web.
